Go get a copy of Surfer magazine and see if it makes you dream about life in the water.
Go to the beach when the surf report says it’s waist high. Anything less and you’ll just run into the sand. Any more and you’ll get worked.
Paddle out. Lay on the board so the board is flat with the ocean. If you lay too far back you’ll end up pointing the board toward the sky and you will have to paddle twice as far to go half the distance.
Get out into the ‘lineup.” This is the place where the other surfers are. You will have a tendency as a new surfer to sit inside. This is a mistake. Get midway between the inside guy and the guy farthest outside. That should you put you about where you need to be
Wait for a nice little wave. Paddle toward it and then point your board so it’s pointing toward the beach.
Better to miss a wave because it hasn’t broken than to get worked by a broken wave.
As you paddle put your heart into it. You have to match the speed of the wave plus some. Just kick ass toward the shore as the wave begins to curl.
Hopefully the wave will take you and you will feel yourself planing along the face of the wave.
Chances are it’ll take you a few times to get to this stage. It took me quite a few waves.
If you feel the wave pulling you along as you lay on you stomach, or in the “prone” position, you must now jump up to your feet.
In my opinion this is the hardest part of surfing.
Don’t get frustrated as you learn how to stand up on your board. It took me a long time.
Just keep trying. Sooner or later you will place your feet on the board at the right time and in the right position. It’s awesome when this happens. It frankly is right on up there with the first time you have sex. Or kiss. So remember it! You first wave is sacred.
After you get your first wave, take in the sunshine, the taste of the water, the happiness you feel. And never forget these things. It’ll get you through many a crappy meeting in the real world when you are older.
· There are people who think they are surfers, who sometimes actually are good surfers but are all about making others feel like they don’t belong. F those guys. If you surf for the right reasons, and you will know what I mean if you are a surfer, you understand something that they will likely never know. Revel in it and learn from it. God Bless the surfer.